Beresford Siding on the Old Ghan Railway, along the Oodnadatta Tk. SA
Beresford Siding on the Old Ghan Railway.
old ghan train
6225192459_1863e9ac5c_k
Beresford Siding on the Old Ghan Railway.
The Old Ghan
3479890824_922b3733c1_c
Marree. The platform of the disused railway station. Station building on the left. This was used by the old Ghan train service to Alice Springs from 1929 to 1980.
Marree/Herrgott Springs.
These semi desert Aboriginal lands were first sighted by white men in 1840 when Edward John Eyre and his exploration party reached Lake Eyre. For some time people thought Lake Torrens and Lake Eyre was one big inland sea but explorations by Surveyor General George Goyder in 1860 proved that the lakes were separate. At that time Governor MacDonnell named the lake after Eyre (now Kati Thanda). It is about 90 kms from Marree. This area of SA is underpinned by deep artesian waters contained under great pressure and in some places they bubble to the surface forming springs. Salts and other minerals from the saline waters eventually create calcium walls around the springs as the water evaporates hence the term mound springs. When Sir Charles Todd was heading the construction of the Overland Telegraph in 1870- 1872 from Port Augusta to Darwin a camp was located at Herrgott Springs which was the first European name for the site of Marree. It was named after explorer John McDougall Stuart‘s botanist Joseph Herrgott who discovered a mound spring in 1859. There are over 5,000 mound springs in SA and they were vital to the construction of the Overland Telegraph.
The town emerged when the Great Northern Railway reached Herrgott Springs in 1884. Before the survey a hotel and a general store opened in 1882.From the beginning the locals and towns people called the place Marree but the government railway station was Herrgott Springs. The Police Station and Post Office opened in 1883 and the school in 1884. During World War One this German name was changed to Marree in line with previous local usage. By 1885 the town had the two storey Great Northern Hotel, two general stores, two butchers, three saddlers and an iron Wesleyan Methodist church and it had 600 residents. This church was used as the government school which was only built in 1908. The Post Office began in a tent until a building was erected in 1886 and it doubled as a repeater station for the Overland Telegraph. The Marree hospital opened in 1912. The railway was the focus of the early town and in 1891 there was a government survey to see if a railway line from Marree up the Birdsville was viable. Another survey was undertaken in 1916 but nothing eventuated. Supples went up and down to Birdsville by camel trains
Many Afghan cameleers were based at the springs as this was the starting point for camel trains to Birdsville, Oodnadatta and elsewhere. Around 1900 about 1,500 camels were based in Marree with 800 owned by just one Afghan. Although motor transport developed in the 1920s the Birdsville track cameleers were in Marree until 1949. Recently a replica Muslim mosque has been erected in the town to commemorate the role the Afghans played in servicing the Birdsville track. The first Mosque open by 1884 and was replaced twice before it closed. Its prayer rugs were sent to the Gilbert St. Mosque in Adelaide. Afghan names in Marree included Dervish, Moosha, Khan, Balook, Wahub, Dadih, Goolamdeen etc. Tom Kruse ran a truck mail service to Birdsville from 1936 to 1963 although the service continued until 1975 when an air service took over. 300 or so date palms were planted in Marree as a trial in 1884 but they did not thrive after about 30 years. The new standard gauge railway to Marree opened in 1957 employing about 85 men as the Ghan to Alice Springs changed gauge here from standard to the narrow 3’6” gauge. This railway closed in 1980 and the town has declined but tourism keeps it alive. Marree has a population of about 100 of which 60 % are men so it is a great place for women to find a partner! Marree Aboriginal School has two primary and one secondary class and six part time teachers. The town also has a Royal Flying Doctor service office, old Commonwealth Railway deserted train engines, and one of the trucks used by Tom Kruse from 1936.
Evening collection on a fence. The old C3040Z still takes nice images.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA still a good camera!
Exposure Time: 1/320
F-stop: f/1.8 It has a fast lens!
ISO Speed: 100
Focal Length: 8.40
Exposure Bias: 7/10
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Metering Mode: Spot
Flash:
Flash Fired: False
Flash Function: False
Flash Mode: 0
Flash Red Eye Mode: False
Flash Return: 0
Light Source: Unknown
The old Ghan sign
P8080179
Quorn. Pichi Richi Railway. Old Ghan carriages on the tourist train through Pichi Richi Pass in the Flinders Ranges.
Hammond (also known as Heartbreak Plains.)
Hammond is a classic tale of a town established way beyond Goyder’s Line during the good seasons of the late 1870s and then its decline into a ghost town with perhaps only a hand full of permanent residents. Parts of Coonatto station were resumed by the government and the land surveyed and then sold at auction for farming from 1875 to form the Hundred of Coonatto. The town of Hammond was surveyed and established three years later in 1879 and named after one of Governor Jervois’ children Hammond( after William Hammond Wilmington Jervois) as was Amyton ( after Amy), Johnburg ( after John), Carrieton ( after Carrie) and also Wilmington. Hammond’s establishment was exceedingly fast and its decline exceedingly slow and painful. With the initial survey around 120 town allotment were offered for sale. A year later (1880) Hammond extension created more town blocks with two street blocks of around 60 town allotments near the new railway station making a total of nearly 200 town allotments. The railway line from Petersburg on its way to Quorn reached Hammond in late 1880 with the first through trains to Quorn in December 1881. The railway was crucial to Hammond’s growth and in 1889, for example, 200,000 bags of wheat were railed out of Hammond. Farmers carted their wheat in drays from Willowie, Amyton and Wilmington to the railway in Hammond.
The origins of the town go back to a time just before the 1879 survey. The Hammond Hotel was built and licensed from 1877. Jacka brothers who ran the brewery in Melrose opened the hotel with beer carted from their brewery. The hotel closed in 1972. Another early structure was the town Post Office built in 1880 with William Hudson as the first Post Master. Hudson appears to have soon given this up for the far more lucrative business of being a wheat agent/buyer. He was one of three main wheat buyers in Hammond throughout the 1880s and 1890s. The Police Station was another early structure as was the state school which opened in 1885 - as a provisional school. The fine stone building which still stands was built around 1895 when Hammond was no longer a provisional school. (For a few years Hammond also had a Catholic School.) Hammond School closed in 1969 with just 6 pupils. In its early years it had over 50 pupils a year. In its heyday Hammond had three stone churches. The first was the Wesleyan Methodist built in 1884. It closed in 1955 and was demolished. St Andrew’s Anglican Church began services in the Institute in 1884 and the church opened a few years later in 1892. It was recognised by the Anglican Synod in 1897. It closed in 1954. The Catholics held some early services in the Institute until their church was moved stone by stone and brick by bricks from near Wilmington to Hammond. In July 1907 Bishop Norton of Port Augusta diocese opened the church. In 1964 a later Bishop of Willochra was ordained in this church and the celebration event held afterwards in the Hammond Hall. Alas neither the church nor Institute are community buildings these days. The Hammond Catholic Church however was the last public building to close in Hammond and that only happened in 2006. In the early years Mrs Jacka’s Assembly rooms in the Hammond Hotel were used for public meetings and even church services. The Institute Hall was opened in 1884 in rented premises until their own building officially opened in April 1893. A Soldiers Memorial façade was added in 1922. A cottage hospital operated in Hammond from the early years as the town had a resident female doctor. The only other public facility that Hammond needed was a District Council and that was formed in 1893 and met in the newly opened Institute. The Council Offices were built behind the hotel in 1913. Hammond District Council was disbanded and amalgamated in 1933. By the late 1890s Hammond had over 100 residents (with about 600 in the Council District) and it was a thriving town despite the droughts of the early 1880s and early 1890s and the unsuitability of much of the country for farming. The community persisted despite the odds and Heartbreak Plains was an apt name but the community was far from dead.
Business was thriving in Hammond in the 1890s and it is doubtful that anyone then thought this thriving town would be a ghost town in the next century. Hammond had the hotel, two butcher shops, two saddlers, two boarding houses, two bootmakers, three general stores that employed over 20 people between them, a butter factory, three grain buyers, a blacksmith who made agricultural implements and buggies and employed 30 men, and to handle this business there was a Bank of Adelaide which opened in 1883. Growth continued into the 20th century and in the 1911 census Hammond had its greatest population with 319 residents but this fell to 109 in 1933 and only 68 in 1947. The number of occupied dwellings fell from 61 in 1911 to 10 in 1961. The rural population surrounding Hammond fell from 94 in 1933 to just 11 in 1947. The town had lost its rural hinterland and economic base.
How then did Hammond become a ghost town? Hammond died very slowly. It began with the closure of the Catholic School in the early 20th century and a big decline in population in the early 1900s. The Police Station was closed by 1904 and the Post Office became a non-official Post Office in 1917 with no mail services at all after 1988. Hammond blacksmith business was sold and presumably closed in 1912. About two third of the population left the town during the 1920s. Another major period of decline was the 1960s. The Railway Station was downgraded to an unattended station in 1930 and from 1937 the Transcontinental Train to Perth no longer passed through the town and the rail service was quite limited. In 1933 the District Council was abolished and the Offices closed. The bank of Adelaide closed in 1939. During World War Two it was used as the office for issuing ration books and as a polling booth for federal elections. Then the churches began to close. The Anglican Church closed in 1954 followed by the Methodist Church the next year. The last general store was still operating when the churches closed but it probably closed when the school and hotel closed. Enrolments at the school began a decline from 1914 onwards with the biggest falls in student numbers from 1942 and by the early 1950s the school usually had around 12 enrolments. The school closed in 1969. Just three years later the hotel closed and the town was almost dead. The last passenger trains used the railway station and line in 1969. Goods trains ceased in 1987.Then in 1999 the District Council of Mt Remarkable sold off properties and buildings that had been abandoned by their owners. Some were purchased for use as weekenders but by then most property had already been demolished or was beyond repair. The noted artist Charles Bannon, father of Premier John Bannon had a property in Hammond for many years and Charles Bannon is buried in the Hammond cemetery.
Part of the old Ghan railway
51014441061_371c5dffa9_k
Algebuckina Bridge
Algebuckina Bridge is probably THE outback railway bridge. Located close to the Oodnadatta track it is a remainder of the Old Ghan railway and with 578m the longest span bridge on the Old Ghan.
27-old ghan train station
10084508664_7b36a93dd7_k
Marree, Old Ghan Station
3479892122_2021e0bda2_c
Old Ghan tanks from the road
51013802953_416dee2cb3_k
Marree, Old Ghan Station
3479891786_b51568b0ec_c
28-old ghan train station
10084642283_87c5034cb4_k
Oodnadatta Track
Old Ghan railway line.
camp with the #HJHolden1975 on the NW end of the Oodnadatta Track
On our way to Uluru with Trudy and the kids.
We got to Ayers Rock the next day, via Ebenezer, views of Mt Connor from a sand dune with Trudy, the dog, then a visit to Sunset Strip for photos before making camp in the Ayers Rock campground, where we saw a dingo licking down the BBQs.
We popped down a few Km along the track for the night to get away from the trucks on the Stuart Highway at Marla.
It was a pleasant spot with no noise or passing cars.
We never thought we would head down this road again 20 years later, and travel most of the road a few times, once again in the HJ, and then a few times to see Lake Eyre in the Landcruiser, Smoky.
See a good description of what there is to see along the track.
From www.westprint.com.au. Oct 2016
Friday Forum
Editor’s comments are in green.
Trip Notes – Oodnadatta Track, South Australia.
Went from Maree to Oodnadatta this week. Best camp Farina by far. Best view Lake Eyre from lookout. Best experience- Arkaringa sunup and sundown. Best Tip- Flynet. Russ
Oodnadatta track – good news is that the Marree man has reappeared. Andrew
www.expeditionaustralia.com.au/2016/08/marree-man-geoglyp...
With tracks drying out, it will be back to good driving conditions and if you want to include a link to my Blog when we were out there in August, it will give him and other viewers just what there is to see along this great drive. Stephen.
www.exploroz.com/Members/58567.500/9/2016/Oodnadatta_Trac...
We travelled the Oodnadatta Track in August this year, just before the recent rain. We were in our Patrol and towing an off-road camper trailer. Before the rain, the track was in very good condition and we enjoyed comfortable travel at about 80 kph.
And there is lots to look out for, but most of it is easily spotted from the road. Here are some highlights listed below.
First there is Farina – between Lyndhurst and Marree. Farina was a small township on the Old Ghan Railway line. Now in ruins, the Farina Restoration Group is slowly restoring the old buildings to prevent further decay. The Restoration Group has also placed informative signs around the old township. The ruins are on Farina Station and there is a very nice campground in the dry creek bed there.
Marree is an interesting old town with a fine hotel and railway station. There are narrow gauge diesels and Tom Cruse’s old truck also at the station. You can get fuel and other supplies from the general store and some of the best homemade pasties going.
Further along the track is Plane Henge. You will notice this from a long way off due to the unusual shapes appearing on the horizon. This is a sculpture park and worth a look at some of the unusual shapes and forms that have appeared here over time. There is also inventive use of existing structures, including the railway water tank that now looks like a dog.
Lake Eyre South is next, and a lookout has been provided, via a turn off to the right, with a good view of the lake – which is mostly dry.
Curdimurka Siding, was a former station for the railway line and is the next lump to appear on the horizon. As the most intact of the rail buildings not in a township, this is also worthy of a stop off. As well as the main building, there are a couple of tin sheds and rail tracks heading north to the decaying water tank and desalination tower. If you go past the water tank following the rail tracks will bring you to a bridge over Stuart Creek. There was a waterhole here when we were there with black swans, herons and ducks present.
The Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs, this time to the left of the road and along a rougher track, is another point of much interest. There are parking areas and board walks across sensitive ground to Blanche Cup and the Bubbler.
Back on the Track and Coward Springs is only a short distance away. This is another camping ground on station property, set in amongst some large casuarinas with all amenities of toilets, donkey powered hot showers and natural spa for something quite different. There are a couple of old buildings from the railway era too.
Another interesting stop off is Strangways Springs, via a turnoff on the left side of the Track, which is marked by a Pink Roadhouse sign. Here are the ruins of a pastoral station and the overland telegraph line. Walking tracks lead to some mound springs and further explores the history of Strangways.
The next stop is William Creek and always worthy of a stopover. There is the pub, an airstrip for scenic flights over Lake Eyre, an outdoor museum and a pleasant camp ground with all amenities.
At Algebuckina, the impressive railway bridge spans the Neales River. With an overall length of 578 metres it is the longest bridge in South Australia. There is also nice camping along the waterhole here.
And finally, Oodnadatta, where you will find the Pink Roadhouse, the Transcontinental Hotel and the old railway station building, which is now a museum housing a very interesting pictorial display. Ask at the Roadhouse for a key to view the museum.
There are several other railway or telegraph related ruins accessible from or close to the Track. The Oodnadatta Track might seem like it crosses a flat, featureless plain, but there is plenty to see along the way.
Coward Springs Campground is a must-stay along the Oodnadatta Track. Once a station on the old Ghan railway line, the site was constructed in 1888 and abandoned before the line was closed in 1980. Greg Emmett and Prue Coulls have been here as your resident hosts since 1991. They have built facilities, planted hundreds of locally native trees, restored the heritage buildings and much more. In 1998 the site (which includes two houses, two in-ground rainwater tanks, a bore, date palms and athel pines) was added to the South Australian Heritage Register. Well worth a stop even just for a day visit to the ‘natural spa’. Jenny.
We were up that way the end of August on the way to do the Madigan, which we had to cancel due to all the rain.
There has been a lot of rain out there and parts of the track have been closed on and off for the last couple of months so the first thing to do is check road conditions. This can be done by checking the SA Outback Roads condition report. Just google it. Alternatively, you can call the Pink Roadhouse for info. I would also check the forthcoming weather forecast by any of the reputable Apps that use the BOM as their source
As this is a very frequently used track I would imagine the graders have been out after the recent rains? If so I think it would be in good gravel road conditions.
As for places you must see, the best bet is to go to the Pink Roadhouse website and follow the link to Mud Maps, where there are a whole host of mud maps put together by the late Adam Plate, prior proprietor of the Roadhouse.
From my perspective, things to see are
Lake Eyre ...... If it is close to full, or you won't see any water from the edge.
Algebuckina Bridge. This is on the side of the track with plenty of places to camp up
Old Peake telegraph station ruins and copper mine ruins. Although this is about 20k off the track it will take 45 mins to get out there. You can camp here but there is limited space.
Coward Springs is worth a stop to see the old Railway Station. You can also camp there for a fee.
At the top end, it's worth heading for Dalhousie Springs to experience the hot thermal spring in the Witjira NP. Entry and camping fees apply unless you have a valid SA Desert Parks pass.
When we were at Dalhousie end of August, we managed to get out to Mt Dare on the day the track was closed. This means the track to and out of Mt Dare was becoming badly cut up. It may be wise to check with Mt Dare and SA Parks to see if the track has been graded since. Otherwise, if it is open, it will be badly rutted.
Malcolm and Trish
The largrest Old Ghan Rail Bridge
8035030455_1bb9d3cafd_c
Curdimurka Railway Siding, Oodnadatta Track (Part of the Old Ghan line)
Curdimurka Railway Siding, Oodnadatta Track (Part of the Old Ghan line) This water tower & desalination tank were used to supply water to the Old Ghan locos.
21-old ghan train station
10084571105_9ee7888a94_k
22-old ghan train station
10084570705_df89a5a219_k
Old Ghan info display at Curdimurka
P8080178
The Old Ghan Rail and sidings
8035028991_67ec1e29a1_c
20-old ghan train station
10084593826_6ac54de3ca_k
Australia - The Dead Heart (Orange)
The Dead Heart depicts the spirit of the pioneers who traversed the centre of Australia via land and air, and thus pave the way for future generations.
Shown in the montage are a London to Fremantle map; mailman Tom Kruse; a team of Afghan cameleers; an early 20th cent. biplane; and ballet dancer Bryan Ashbridge who appears to be rejoicing in "Advance Australia Fare".
Images by Stephen Permezel (creator) include the Old Ghan railway line; a radio repeater dish; and the eye of a Central Australian Aboriginal elder representing thousands of years of knowledge.
*Image Created for Picture Australia under creative commons using images: nla.int-ex86-s29-dm, nla.int-ex86-s30-dm, nla.int-ex109-s8-dm, nla.int-ex166-s1-dm, nla.int-ex166-s13-dm.
English
